In 1984 downtown Cleveland, Ohio, was dying. Wandering the city streets then was reminiscent of a post-apocalyptic movie set. Empty buildings, empty streets and boarded storefronts, the occasional panhandler was the only sign of life. Twenty years and a lot of vision and investment later and Cleveland is now a showcase of urban renaissance, proudly gracing the shores of Lake Erie.

An athletic walk of the city is the best way to appreciate the incredible amount of renewal accomplished in just two short decades. Like other Midwestern cities, the streets are broad and the term "city block" applies. Along with the renovations of buildings and retail, Cleveland has expanded their Rapid Transit Authority allowing easy access to points of interest.

Beginning at the central point of Public Square, the sight of the Soldiers and Sailors Monument, walking in any direction leads to a memorable attraction. North leads to Lake Erie, the new Cleveland Browns Stadium, the Science Center and, of course, The Rock and Roll Hall of Fame. Head South and find shopping in Tower City in the Terminal Tower building and farther south and a bit east is Jacobs Field, familiarly known as "The Jake" to legions of Cleveland Indians fans. Going east leads to Playhouse Square for theater and ballet and West to the Warehouse District for fine dining, The Flats along the Cuyahoga River for nightlife and farther west across Veterans Bridge is the West Side Market.

As one of the last city food markets in existence, it is an epicurean wonderland, open Mondays, Wednesdays, Fridays and Saturdays, from 7 a.m. to 4 p.m. Getting to the market from downtown is an ambitious walk, but not impossible and worth the effort. OK, drive if you want to; you'll probably carry a lot out.

Everywhere in Cleveland are examples of incredible architecture. Cleveland was once the fourth largest city in the country and remarkably wealthy, the home of John D. Rockefeller. It was (and is) a hub of immigration, bringing plentiful and skilled labor as evidences in the stone masonry throughout downtown.

Returning to my old stomping grounds during the St. Patrick's Day parade was not the best choice for a stroll down the city streets. The day before I watched with my neighbors as a small town parade honored the Cooperstown boys' basketball team. The next day I was trapped amid a throng of 350,000 generally loud and inebriated spectators on Euclid Avenue. Though fascinated at the endless variety of Irish associations, public services and blue collar professions represented in the 3-hour procession, the last time I witnessed such raucous behavior was Oktoberfest in Munich, Germany.

Should you have the opportunity, by all means enjoy historical downtown Cleveland. Just avoid Euclid Avenue on St. Patrick's Day.

Brenda Berstler is the founder of The Walking Example Group (WEGO).